the yeni camii, in four photographs

As friends and fellow sketchers Lapin and Javier are in town, I've been spending my days in a fantastic frenzy of sketching and sight-seeing. One of our first stops was the Yeni Camii, or "New Mosque" which is as new as 1663, when its construction was completed. The Yeni Camii is that impressive, massive mosque in Eminönü, right next to the Spice Bazaar. This marvellous granite and marble structure is home to sixty-six domes and semi domes, two minarets and an enormous central dome with a ceiling of thirty-six meters in height. As you can imagine, it's not easy to draw.

in prayer

bayram

It's Şeker Bayram— a three and a half day festival of eating sweets and spending time with loved ones in celebration of the end of Ramazan, the holy month of fasting for Muslims. Istanbul is buzzing with happy faces— children laughing and playing in shiny new shoes, lovers meandering with hands entwined in a lovestruck daze, fishermen grinning with satisfaction at their glistening catch. Hot pink candy floss, corn on the cob, juicy red watermelon. The energy in the city is electric, and though the crowds can be a bit much at times, you can't help but feel like a kid at the fair again.

the blues

Yesterday I met up with jewellery designer extraordinaire Shamila Jiwa to wander around Eminönü and visit the humble yet stunning Rüstem Paşa Camii. Rüstem Paşa is a hidden gem; a little mosque just to the left of the Spice Bazaar, if you are facing the Golden Horn. Known for its exquisite examples of İznik tiles, this quiet oasis was built from 1561 to 1563. I am mad for all things İznik— decorative ceramics popular in the 16th century, that were originally inspired by Chinese porcelain, which was lusted after by Ottoman sultans. In the chaos of Eminönü, this beautiful mosque is a wonderful escape. Be sure to take off your shoes upon entering, and ladies, out of respect, please cover your head and any tiny clothing with a scarf. You can pick up a lovely multicoloured 5 lira one at the Spice Bazaar before visiting.

The floral and geometric designs are typical of Islamic art and architecture— unlike many forms of Christianity, it is forbidden to depict the image of Allah, The Prophet and people. Because of this, the art of calligraphy was perfected— and let me tell you, the geometric patterns will just blow you away. Rüstem Paşa is full of light, blues and serenity— truly a place worth visiting.