return from amazing

I got back into Istanbul earlier this morning, hung out with some great people I met on my Kapadokyan adventure, had a little lunch and passed out. The last four days have been full hiking in and around valleys and caves, eating delicious food, meeting fun people and learning about the local history. Just as I had gotten over the eleven and a half hour bus ride to Kapadokya (with a little help from a trip to a hamam), I had to get on the returning bus.

I had the most wonderful time and would like to get into all the details, so I've decided the best way to tackle the trip is by writing the post in three parts: Day One, Day Two and Day Three. This will also allow for more picture sharing. I took over 200 photos and I'm having a tough time choosing which to post.

Stay tuned.

illustrations

That's a very tired and frustrated Sleeping Beauty and Dracula. I did these for the very cool advertising agency that is Medina Turgul DDB. When the ads are finished, I'll post them along with the third illustration so you can see how they were used.

Tonight I am taking off for a few days to Kapadokya, also known unphonetically in the West as Cappadocia, which is in central Anatolia. I haven't been since I was eight or so, and I'm terribly excited. I'm not sure what to pack, as I'll be doing a lot of walking and I don't know what the weather will be like.

Kapadokya is a land unlike any I have seen, I remember it feeling like I was on another planet with all its caves and bizarre rock formations. Of course, this was over 20 years ago, and it has become a major tourist attraction, so I doubt it feels as desolate as I remember it. I'm taking three sketchbooks, my camera and loads of pens. I doubt the little bed and breakfast I'll be staying in has internet accesibility, so I'll be posting all the sketches and pictures when I come back later next week. In the meantime, if you are curious, you can read about Kapadokya on Wiki.

calligraphy and tulips

After realising that I've been completely missing the giant outdoor ads in plain sight for the Annual Tulip Festival, I zipped over to Emirgan Park yesterday to check it out. It was the most beautiful spring day— the air full of bird song, with a deliciously warm sun hanging in the bluest sky. Emirgan Park is on the hill just before you reach the town of İstinye. It's a little hidden, you have to follow the brown signs that read Pembe Kösk and Sarı Kösk to get there. It's one of the most beautiful parks to spend an afternoon in, with plenty of paths to walk along, benches to read on, three outdoor cafés and a lovely pond complete with ducks and a waterfall.


After relaxing in the sun amongst the flowers, I visited the Sakıp Sabancı Museum (which is right at the bottom of the hill from the park) to see an exhibit of the first Western-style Turkish painters. It was an interesting collection, the work primarily influenced by the Impressionists, which fit the mood of the day perfectly.


The SSM was originally a mansion built in 1927 as a summer home for an Egyptian prince. It became known as the Atlı Köşk, or "Horse Mansion" for the horse statue in the front garden. Industrialist Hacı Ömer Sabancı purchased Atlı Köşk in 1950 and lived in it with his family until his death in 1966, when it was passed on to Sakıp Sabancı. The mansion housed a large collection of paintings and Ottoman calligraphy, and was given to Sabancı University in 1998 to be transformed into a museum.

The SSM opened to the public in 2002, and gained international acclaim in 2005 with new additions and exciting exhibitions. The first ever temporary exhibition of 135 never before shown Picasso paintings, Picasso in Istanbul, brought in more than 250,000 visitors. The second major exhibition at the museum was The Master Sculptor Rodin in İstanbul, which featured 203 pieces on loan from Musée Rodin in Paris— and with permission from the Musée Rodin, visually impaired people were invited to touch some of the sculptures. Labels were also printed in braille.

Before I was kindly reprimanded for snapping pictures, I managed to get a few shots of some fine examples of calligraphy. Having lived large portions of my life in Middle Eastern countries (by the way, Turkey is not in the Middle East as so many believe), I grew up with a fascination and love of Arabic script. In my opinion, no other script can match its flow and grace.

sketches of late

I have been in love with all the avian action here in Istanbul. Turkey is in the middle of many major migratory paths, so we get all sorts of interesting characters. These are a few residents that I find particularly charming. I am attempting to befriend a pair of hooded crows by leaving gifts of walnuts on the roof. I noticed they are quite fond of walnuts, as they leave shell piles in the rain gutter.

Click on the images to see them larger.

binbavul

The week before last, I was strolling around Beyoğlu and discovered a unique treasure trove of vintage goodies hidden up a tiny alley off a road that lead from Galata Tower to Istiklâl. My eye seems trained to spot out the word "vintage" from afar, and so I spied a hand painted sign that read "Vintage Bazaar." I followed the narrow alley and vintage dresses hung along the stone walls to the sound of Led Zeppelin seeping out of a doorway.

It was dim and cavernous— and when I say cavernous, I don't just mean it was large, but that the shop felt very much like a cave. The amount of gloves, jewelry, handbags and clothing was enough to excite any vintage lover. I was particularly interested in a pile of vintage family photos— I love old photos. I have a small collection that I bought back in Providence from the 30s and 40s, and would love to add to it.

Fehmi and his charming assistant Teegan

Binbavul means "A thousand suitcases," owner Fehmi Gören explained to me, and indeed the shop is full of suitcases used for display, décor and for sale. It's a neat place worth checking out if you are a fan of things vintage, or if you just want to poke around for an original gift. There's even a fireplace.

Address: Galipdede cad. No.66 Kuledibi, Istanbul

graffiti

Lately I've been quite the busy bee and have been unable to do a lot of posting or sketching. My third and final drawing of the illustration assignment I've been working on was completed today, and I'm very pleased with the outcome. It has been a really fun project and I can't wait to post them here— as soon as I get the green light to share them, I will. In the meantime, here's some graffiti from the side streets of Beyoğlu.


Coming soon to a post near you:
The discovery of Binbavul, a cavernous vintage store with loads of goodies.
A journey into central Turkey.

tulipa

Every year, the city of Istanbul plants about 3 million tulip bulbs all over the city. The beautiful blossoms have now bloomed in medians, roundabouts and parks. Known as lale to the Turks, the tulip is indigenous to Turkey, Iran and Afghanistan— not Holland as many people think. It is unknown who brought the first bulb over to the West, but this modest flower created an incredible sensation in 17th century Europe.

I hear there has been a tulip festival in Emirgan Park in Istanbul each year since 2006, but I cannot find any information on when it is this year. Tulips are my favourite flowers, so I absolutely must get over to Emirgan.

galata kulesi and a few sketches

After I dropped off the illustration I had been working on for a client in Kasımpaşa, I decided that since I was near Galata Kulesi, otherwise known as the Galata tower, I'd pop on over to check it out. I've always seen it from a distance but have never actually been there. It's a landmark that is impossible to miss— a huge cylindrical structure with a cone-shaped roof watching over the Golden Horn. Built in 1348, the the tower stands 66.90 metres tall and is 35 metres above sea-level, which made it the highest structure in Constantinople. Its primary purpose during Ottoman times was watching for fires. When I was little, I believed that it was from Galata Kulesi that Icarus attempted to fly free on his wings of wax.

Before venturing into the tower, I stopped in a café at the base for a tea and tost— toast. I love the phonetic spelling in Turkish! Tost is basically what is known to Americans as grilled cheese. You can get tomatoes in your tost or a tasty spicy sausage called sucuk— which is what I got. There is a café in the tower should you wish to dine with a view, but I haven't tried it.

Climbing to the top of Galata Kulesi will give you one of the most astonishing views of the Bosphorus and Golden Horn. On a clear day, you can see the Marmara sea with all its boats waiting for entry into the strait.



On the left side of the picture below, you can see Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya in Turkish) on the horizon and Sultanahmet, the Blue Mosque, on the right.


Upon exiting, there was a man with a sweets cart that I couldn't resist purchasing a little fried dough from. This is the Turkish version of a churro, which I am crazy for. The amount of churros I ate back in California is either impressive or embarrassing. Syrupy, doughy, delicious and only 50 kuruş— which according to today's exchange rate is 31 cents. You can't beat that. I'm not sure what this is called, but a shorter form is called tulumba.

Click on the images to see them larger.