snow and sea

Yesterday, on the limits of Istanbul.

the sight of the sea

The first sight of the sea made me giddy with joy. I had no idea how much seeing those waves would excite me— I grew up with the Black Sea, and only realised at this moment how I had taken it for granted.

a threatening sky

uphill

the blue of the black sea

Watching the light change while strolling along one of Trabzon's many jetties, in search of the very confusing Caspian gull. That black dot in the water above is the peeking fin of a hungry porpoise.

road trip

I've just returned from wandering around northeastern Turkey for the past week, from spotting seabirds on the shores of the Black Sea, to hiking in the snow, watching for bears and wolves. I took little more than a few changes of clothes, a toothbrush, some sketching gear and my camera. Stay tuned!

anadolu kavağı

Sometimes you find yourself in need of a little peace and quiet. You want to be near the sea, go on a hike and eat some good fish at a restaurant with netting on the ceiling. You want to stick your feet in the Bosphorus and watch little crabs scuttle under rocks for shade. Anadolu Kavağı is on the Asian side right across the Bosphorus from Sarıyer. It's a one and a half lira, fifteen minute ferry ride from Sarıyer's iskele, and well worth a visit.


Yoros kalesi, or Yoros Castle sits atop one of Anadolu Kavağı's high hills and overlooks the mouth of the Black Sea. This is one of the narrowest points along the Bosphorus, a strategic location fiercely fought over by the Genoese, Byzantines and Ottomans. Directly across the Bosphorus on the European side, stood another fortress, Rumeli Kavağı. If necessary, an enormous chain could be stretched across from one side to the other, stopping any unwelcome ships from entering the Bosphorus. There isn't a whole lot left to see of the fortress' structure, but one of the most stunning views in Istanbul is from the top of that hill. You're at the tip of Asia, with Europe in right front of you. There's the Bosphorous below, marked by the wakes of tankers, fishing vessels and speedboats. Seeing that foggy blue opening to the Black Sea is so... mysterious.