Later that night at our hotel, we were grateful to discover that there wasn't a single kebab in sight. Now, I do love kebabs, and we've dined on some exquisite varieties whilst on the road, but after so many days of spiced skewered beef, it was amazing to see that tomato soup and chicken and potatoes!
The kindness and warmth of Kervansaray's owner Hamdi, Osman the cook, and the two boys who deftly flew between guests like the swallows that filled the sky, made our decision to stay an extra night easy. Nemrut at sunrise, another look at the Kurdish Wheatear, and a good wander around some more remnants of the Commagene kingdom. Maybe cool our feet in a branch of the Euphrates. These things helped too.
I felt at home.