a walk about town

* * California poppies * *

* * See the fog waiting to roll in? * *

* * Egg and salmon frittata with bread pudding at La Boulange on Hayes * *

* * A trip to Blue Bottle Coffee Co. on Linden and Gough, right behind
Hayes Street is a must for true lovers of the bean * *

* * Mochi in Japantown * *

* * Union Square * *

* * The Fog * *

haight and the de young

Well I just tried to import my photos off my camera into iPhoto (which I normally never use, but I'm on a different computer) and it crashed, deleting all the photos I took today! I have nothing to show you except sketches. I am so upset. I took tons of pictures of Golden Gate Park, Haight Street, the Conservatory. So I'll just tell you about today and show you some sketches until I go back to the park.

Armed with a fully-charged camera (sigh), I headed off in the chilly fog to Haight Street for a little shopping and some noodles. There is one thing everyone should know before visiting SF in the summer: the weather is cold. Bring warm pants, tights, a jacket and sweaters. The key to visiting and life in SF is layering. My formula was generally skirt + tights + t-shirt + sweater + jacket + scarf. This way I could adjust throughout the day in case the sun decided to shine or the fog swept in.

My most favourite shop on Haight is the Fluevog store. I have been a fan of Fluevog shoes for over a decade. They're stylish, unique, comfortable and incredibly well made. I have several pairs with paper-thin soles but the leather feels and looks brand-new. Every time I wear any of my Vogs, my feet get checked out. The other wonderful thing about Fluevog is that they also give you, yes you, the opportunity to design your own shoe if you enter a sketch into their Open Source Footwear. A few of you may already know this, but last year, Fluevog chose my design to be made into a real shoe that was named after me: The Zaza. Needless to say I was over the moon, and still am every time I put on my own pair. It really felt like winning the lottery, it was such an incredible honour. Here's a picture of my shoe, courtesy of fluevog.com:

Aren't they great? I'm a lucky, lucky girl.
* * *


After my favourite jade noodles in coconut lemongrass sauce at The Citrus Club, I walked through Golden Gate Park to the de Young museum, truly what I consider the most impressive art museum in San Francisco. I do not like the SFMOMA at all; It's an awful building and well, if you can go to a spacious large, well-lit, gorgeous wooden-floored museum with beautifully displayed pieces, wouldn't you rather go there instead? I have spent countless mornings and afternoons in the de Young's Mesoamerican, African and Oceanic art rooms. The clay figures and carved masks feel like old friends that I had to visit.


I just happened to discover at the last minute that one of my favourite movies, Harold and Maude was playing at the Red Vic Movie House on Haight— naturally R and I practically ran over to catch the 9:15 showing. Watching a movie at the Red Vic is a unique and fun experience. The theatre is tiny and has cushioned benches in the front that are quite comfortable. You get your popcorn in a bowl and tea or coffee in a mug. So much more personal and cosy than your typical movie theatre.

errands

No errand-filled day can begin without a good hit of caffeine. I have been getting coffee from Issa and Sue at Coffee Cabin for over four years. Greeted with a smile and a story, my SF days would always start out happy. If you find yourself at the corner of Bush and Hyde, stop in and say hi to Issa. Get a coffee or a bagel and sit for a while.

In between errands, I stopped to get my hair cut by the most fantastic hairdresser I know, Zack at Backstage Salon on Polk. Zack has been responsible for my incredible hairstyles— seriously, people used to stop me on the street and ask me who did my hair. He is one of the nicest and most talented hairdressers I have ever met. When I first went in years ago, my hair was mid-way down my back. I told him he could do whatever he wanted. I walked out of the salon with the most stylish modern bob. I know hairdressers in Turkey are supposed to be amazing, but my experiences have been less than stellar, to put it lightly. I decided to wait to have Zack fix my 'do.


Rachel and I met up for frites and wine at Frjtz on Hayes Street. The fries here are so very close to the delicious frites that are served up in newsprint cones in Belgium. You have a delicious choice of dipping sauces and there are also some fantastic salads and crepes to choose from. I really only ever went for the frites. Hayes Street is a quiet, fun street with supercool shops and restaurants. I highly recommend taking a stroll down Hayes if you visit SF. It isn't as mad as Haight, quieter and funkier than Union, and smaller than Polk.

jetlag

Every city has a smell. When I stepped off the Super Shuttle van onto the street and took in a deep breath of fog and eucalyptus, I knew I was back in San Francisco. Istanbul felt like a dream; the last seven months went by so quickly. I half expected to walk up the steps to my old apartment, turn the key in the sticky lock and throw my bags down on the dining room floor. I'm staying with my great friend of fifteen years, Rachel, who goes way back to my Cairo days. Moving is always hard when you leave behind friends, but I am so happy I moved to Istanbul. I will always love SF, but I now have a new and different appreciation for it.


I awoke yesterday to the chill of the summer fog and the chatter of San Francisco's wild parrots flying overhead. When I stepped outside, the tree-shaded streets were quiet except for the occasional car. It seemed like the city was exactly how I left it, with only a few changes— some new cafés and shops in the place of old ones, buildings that were half constructed are now reaching to the sky.

So what does a girl like me do on her first full day in her old city? She goes to her old drawing haunt, La Boulange de Polk on Polk Street. I have sketched, eaten, and drank countless soy lattés in this café, and naturally I returned with a new pen and a nearly full Moleskine.


Please excuse the quality of these photos, my camera ran out of battery power and these were taken with my phone. When I get back to Istanbul, I'll be adding colour washes and properly scanning my books.

this weekend's sketches

... and now I am off to San Francisco.
... stay tuned.

anadolu kavağı

Sometimes you find yourself in need of a little peace and quiet. You want to be near the sea, go on a hike and eat some good fish at a restaurant with netting on the ceiling. You want to stick your feet in the Bosphorus and watch little crabs scuttle under rocks for shade. Anadolu Kavağı is on the Asian side right across the Bosphorus from Sarıyer. It's a one and a half lira, fifteen minute ferry ride from Sarıyer's iskele, and well worth a visit.


Yoros kalesi, or Yoros Castle sits atop one of Anadolu Kavağı's high hills and overlooks the mouth of the Black Sea. This is one of the narrowest points along the Bosphorus, a strategic location fiercely fought over by the Genoese, Byzantines and Ottomans. Directly across the Bosphorus on the European side, stood another fortress, Rumeli Kavağı. If necessary, an enormous chain could be stretched across from one side to the other, stopping any unwelcome ships from entering the Bosphorus. There isn't a whole lot left to see of the fortress' structure, but one of the most stunning views in Istanbul is from the top of that hill. You're at the tip of Asia, with Europe in right front of you. There's the Bosphorous below, marked by the wakes of tankers, fishing vessels and speedboats. Seeing that foggy blue opening to the Black Sea is so... mysterious.