one fish, two fish

Mmmm... delicious, fresh balık ekmek and warm, sweet lokma— a perfect treat for a mere five lira. If you have a hankering for grilled fish sandwiches, walk over to the foot of the Galata Bridge in Eminönü and order a balık ekmek (bah-luk ek-mek) from one of the men in embroidered vests standing by the bobbing grill boats. Once you've got your paper-wrapped sandwich, look for a seat under the tarps— you might have to share one of the Liliputian tables with some tourists or locals, no big deal. You'll all be so into your fish, it'll feel like you've known each other for years. Drizzle on lemon juice from the table's squeeze bottle, sprinkle on some salt, and dive in. There might be a bone or two, so be prepared, but don't let that ruin the experience.


Need some pickles? Those plastic cups of veggies in pinkish liquid gliding past on metal trays carried by swift-footed young men are pickled radishes, cabbages and possibly carrots. It's pickled and yummy, so who cares what it is, right?

How about dessert? Warm, sticky, syrupy lokma dusted with ground pistachio hits the spot. Lokma is a ball of fried dough reminiscent of a doughnut, but drowned in syrup. I highly recommend sharing these dangerously sweet treats— you might end up bouncing off to Asia from the sugar rush!