The sun has finally made its debut and warmed the citrus orchards of Olympos, on the Mediterranean coast of Turkey. I've been here since Tuesday, sitting by campfires, sipping ginger tea and having endless conversations with Molly and a growing collection of new friends. The air is perfumed by sea and flower, pine, earth and fire. The muscles in my shoulders are softening, there is birdsong and the laughter of happy travellers. A hoopoe in its flashy stripes and blushed chest flitted by— an omen of good things to come. Every time I've seen a hoopoe, which has only been three times in my life, something good has followed. I'm feeling very relaxed and excited about today— I think Molly and I are going up Mount Olympos.