migration

One of the most marvellous things in nature happens every year, like clockwork. Thousands of storks— both black and white, as well as a wide variety of raptors, cross the Bosphorus on sunny days, making their way into Europe. At times, the sky is so full of birds, that you don't know where to point your telescope or binoculars, and while you are eyeing those beautiful storks, a Steppe Eagle slips silently by. We packed a picnic lunch of tuna sandwiches and potato salad, with the added treat of a bottle of wine. I carried the food, and Pedro was in charge of the equipment.



We headed to the hills behind Sarıyer, the northernmost district of Istanbul, just before the mouth of the Black Sea. As we hopped off the bus, the blue above us was already dotted with Lesser Spotted Eagles, Goshawks, and legions of White Storks circling within the thermals. We found an open spot with a view to set up, and settled in. Unfortunately my camera cannot handle the distance or movement of the birds, so all the raptor photos I have are fuzzy at best, making them look like moustaches in the sky, but I managed to get some of the White Storks.



So far, the highlights of the migration for me have been the elegant Black Storks (see one above) and a Griffon Vulture, neither of which I had ever seen before— and wow! Griffon Vultures are HUGE. I also really enjoyed seeing a lone Egyptian Vulture gliding past the cloud of White Storks, which caused a commotion among some nearby Turkish birdwatchers. I saw my first Egyptian Vulture in Pokhara, Nepal, while taking refuge from the heat in the shade of a tree. I looked up into the sky, and there it was: circling above, its white and black feathers contrasting vividly against a deep blue. I had seen them in Oman, and now, like an old familiar face, one was flying above me on the edge of Istanbul.

sadberk hanim müzesi

There's a lovely little museum right between the towns of Büyükdere and Sarıyer called the Sadberk Hanım Müzesi. Unlike Istanbul's larger museums, the Sadberk is a private museum that feels more like a home— it's housed in two 19th century wooden villas right on the Bosphorus. Unfortunately I practically ran through it the other day, as I got there right before closing time. There was an exhibit of Iznik ceramics that I've been dying to see for about a month, and I was worried that I'd miss it. I had planned on taking pictures and doing a little writeup of the pieces, explaining what Iznik is, but right after I snapped the photo below, I was told to put the camera away.

I plan on going back soon to draw the motifs— I am a huge fan of Iznik design. Named after a town in Anatolia where the ceramics were produced, Iznik is an incredibly beautiful, ornate style that was originally influenced by Chinese porcelain. Tulips and carnations were popular motifs, as well as vegetal and geometric patterns. Vibrant turquoise, cobalt, red and green were the main colours that were used— I am particularly fond of the pieces that are heavy on the blues. There's a lot of symbolism involved in these gorgeous designs, which I hope to delve into when I can share some more images.


I also have to add that the Sadberk has one of the most wonderful collections of Ottoman women's clothing, accessories and needlework that I have seen so far in Istanbul. It feels quite personal, looking at the dainty combs and stitched purses once worn and loved. I was fascinated by a couple of dresses that were completely Victorian in style, except for the massive ornate silver belt and embroidery that was clearly Ottoman. They seemed to exemplify the blending of East and West that is truly Turkish.

When visiting Istanbul, I do suggest taking the ferry out to Sarıyer to this unique little museum, it's worth every lira— and it's open every day of the week except Wednesday.

public transport

Let me rave about Istanbul's public transport. After years of suffering SF's MUNI— buses that never ran on time, broke down, often crashed and yes, even caught on fire, I was thrilled by the cleanliness and efficiency of Istanbul's buses. I didn't see any gum, half-eaten chicken in a tub under a seat, grafitti or discarded sodas. People were courteous with each other and obeyed the No Cell-phone sign. I also didn't have to wait long before a bus or a dolmüş came along that was going my way. Speaking of dolmüş, I learned today that you can pick one up from anywhere on the side of the road and my, how people are friendly! I got a little confused as to where my stop was, so I asked the driver (in broken Turkish) if the building I was pointing to was where I needed to get off. Realising I was a foreigner, the driver and about three other passengers kindly explained through hand gestures and smiles that my stop was two stops away. They all alerted me when we got there and wished me "iyi günler," a "good day." I am in love. Good, easy and inexpensive transportation is necessary to being able to get around a massive city like Istanbul. In the next few days I'll try out the Metro.

I had just gotten off the bus on the way back and decided I needed to sit on a bench and draw this, the beginning of a town called Sarıyer. The Black Sea is right around the corner from Sarıyer, which has a rather large iskele, or port. From there you can catch all sorts of ferryboats, which I can't wait to do.