the blues

Yesterday I met up with jewellery designer extraordinaire Shamila Jiwa to wander around Eminönü and visit the humble yet stunning Rüstem Paşa Camii. Rüstem Paşa is a hidden gem; a little mosque just to the left of the Spice Bazaar, if you are facing the Golden Horn. Known for its exquisite examples of İznik tiles, this quiet oasis was built from 1561 to 1563. I am mad for all things İznik— decorative ceramics popular in the 16th century, that were originally inspired by Chinese porcelain, which was lusted after by Ottoman sultans. In the chaos of Eminönü, this beautiful mosque is a wonderful escape. Be sure to take off your shoes upon entering, and ladies, out of respect, please cover your head and any tiny clothing with a scarf. You can pick up a lovely multicoloured 5 lira one at the Spice Bazaar before visiting.

The floral and geometric designs are typical of Islamic art and architecture— unlike many forms of Christianity, it is forbidden to depict the image of Allah, The Prophet and people. Because of this, the art of calligraphy was perfected— and let me tell you, the geometric patterns will just blow you away. Rüstem Paşa is full of light, blues and serenity— truly a place worth visiting.

sadberk hanim müzesi

There's a lovely little museum right between the towns of Büyükdere and Sarıyer called the Sadberk Hanım Müzesi. Unlike Istanbul's larger museums, the Sadberk is a private museum that feels more like a home— it's housed in two 19th century wooden villas right on the Bosphorus. Unfortunately I practically ran through it the other day, as I got there right before closing time. There was an exhibit of Iznik ceramics that I've been dying to see for about a month, and I was worried that I'd miss it. I had planned on taking pictures and doing a little writeup of the pieces, explaining what Iznik is, but right after I snapped the photo below, I was told to put the camera away.

I plan on going back soon to draw the motifs— I am a huge fan of Iznik design. Named after a town in Anatolia where the ceramics were produced, Iznik is an incredibly beautiful, ornate style that was originally influenced by Chinese porcelain. Tulips and carnations were popular motifs, as well as vegetal and geometric patterns. Vibrant turquoise, cobalt, red and green were the main colours that were used— I am particularly fond of the pieces that are heavy on the blues. There's a lot of symbolism involved in these gorgeous designs, which I hope to delve into when I can share some more images.


I also have to add that the Sadberk has one of the most wonderful collections of Ottoman women's clothing, accessories and needlework that I have seen so far in Istanbul. It feels quite personal, looking at the dainty combs and stitched purses once worn and loved. I was fascinated by a couple of dresses that were completely Victorian in style, except for the massive ornate silver belt and embroidery that was clearly Ottoman. They seemed to exemplify the blending of East and West that is truly Turkish.

When visiting Istanbul, I do suggest taking the ferry out to Sarıyer to this unique little museum, it's worth every lira— and it's open every day of the week except Wednesday.

pattern and preview

I just spent a fun-filled day of exploring Topkapı Palace and the Yerebatan Sarayı Cistern with a friend of mine from back in my Cairo days. There is so much to write about and since I'm sleepy, I thought I'd give you a little taste of the post I'll be concocting tomorrow. There will be more photos, a little history, food and of course, sketches.