the lady at the yeniköy spor kulübü

Breakfast was a humbler, less exotic (and much less expensive) cheese and tomato tost with a çay at the Yeniköy Spor Kulübü, where I have enjoyed sketching in the past. Every time I have been at the YSK, there's been this fabulous old lady who always, without fail, is sitting somewhere inside, frowning over a newspaper in her pearl necklace or faux-fur coat. I love drawing her. She sits alone, generally in the same spot or its vicinity, mutters to herself and shakes her head in disapproval as she reads.

Here she is today— and I've decided to share some of my previous sketches of her below:

I had one more, but the owner of the Spor Kulübü decided to keep that one. He's been known to whisk sketchbooks out of my hands and show my "models" their portraits. Our lovely lady here has seen my work— but I have no idea how she feels about it.

a few forgotten sketches

Just some sketches I forgot to share— drawn at the Yeniköy Spor Kulübü earlier this month. Please click on the images to see them in greater detail.

the first of july

taksim

My day began at the Yeniköy Spor Kulübü sketching people, having tea and lokma— fried balls of dough soaked in delicious syrup. It seems every culture has their own fried dough— I was addicted to churros back in SF, and lokma just might become my doughy obsession here. I finally managed to sketch this older gentleman that seems to be the café's maître-d, who I had dying to draw for about a month. He has the most amazing face and nose, and is constantly running about tending to customers, but today he actually sat down for a cigarette. I drew as quickly as my pencil and hand would allow me, captured him perfectly and due to my spotty Turkish, accidentally gave the drawing away along with another I had done of the Anatolian woman. I thought he was going to photocopy the drawings as had been done in the past, but since I had drawn in a tear-out sketchpad, he tore them out with smiles and a thank you. Sadly I have no photo to post of those two drawings, but I am pleased that they could make someone so happy. I did however, sketch this magnificent lady in my new Istanbul City Moleskine before I left:



I took a dolmuş to Taksim, downtown Istanbul. I love Taksim, it's alive with a city buzz— it's artistic, historic and eclectic. Cafés, pubs, clubs and shops galore line the streets— one street in particular has captured my fancy, Istiklâl Caddesi. Istiklâl is a pedestrian-only street with a tram that runs through the centre. I really can't describe it; there are loads of connecting alleyways that are full of unique shops, funky bars and cafés, second-hand stores and up-and-coming designer's shops. There are so many hidden gems here, I can feel it— each building on each alley has several floors, so you can imagine how much there is to discover. I feel that I've scratched the surface of the surface, and I am definitely going to have to experience the nightlife here, I can just tell it's a fun time.

a little breakfast

I went back to the Yeniköy Spor Kulübü for a little breakfast and a sketch. I've been wanting to draw this woman for the past three weeks now— I've been told she takes care of the bathrooms in the café and is from Anatolia. She has so much character, and is usually moving about but today she sat down and had a breakfast of bread, butter, cheese and tea. Her hands were so quick, they were difficult to draw.

Once again, a waiter whisked away my Moleskine and when he showed it to her, she let out this little noise of surprise and started smiling. She said all sorts of things to me that I didn't understand— I was told one of the things was "health to your hands." As I was touching up the drawing, I noticed a familiar happy face at a table— it was the gentleman I had drawn last week. We waved to each other and the Moleskine soon made its way over to him, where he thumbed through it, showing his friends the drawing he was in. I love the reactions I have gotten so far from my "models," they make for a fun and rewarding sketching experience.

sketch and tea

First off, I'd like to mention how happy I am to be able to say "President Obama." I watched the Inauguration last night, moved and inspired. I feel proud and optimistic. And goodness, I can't help but say it— didn't he look hot?

I was glad today was a little warmer since I still don't have any proper winter clothes. I was able to throw on a coat over my standard SF uniform and leave the house without freezing— which felt so good. I went to Yeniköy Spor Kulübü again to do some sketching and have a tea. Turkish tea, çay, is a black tea that's served piping hot in little tulip-shaped glasses with sugarcubes on the side.


When I was close to finished, the waiter asked if he could see what I was drawing. I showed it to him, then suddenly he took my Moleskine and presented it to the man drawn here. What was a look of utter confusion melted into a big grin, and all sorts of things were said with smiles. The man was so flattered, especially since he felt he was drawn younger, and asked if he could get a photocopy of the sketch. With my nod and an "evet," Turkish for "yes," the sketch was whisked away to a little scanner/printer by the cash register. I signed the photocopy and handed it to my model, who was all smiles and thankful. It was an experience that made my day.



Then I went to Asia— I love being able to say that! I needed a new duvet and a few random things, so I crossed the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge to Ikea. Sometimes Ikea is just the place for what you need. I also got an akbil today, which is a rechargeable metal button that works as a bus, metro and ferry pass. You charge it up with money and get to pay a reduced fare. Now there's no stopping me.

yeniköy through a window

I've been stuck at home since I got back from Beirut with a nasty cold, waiting to get well enough to go outside to sketch. Yesterday I went out only to sit inside, it was just too cold. I drew this through the window of a café in Yeniköy.

Here's a great cold remedy:

Squeeze the juice and pulp of one lemon into a mug.
Add one teaspoon of honey and a pinch of cayenne pepper.
Pour boiling water into the mug and sip slowly.

I love this concoction and will drink it even if I'm not coming down with something. I've also simmered grated ginger in water and used the liquid instead of the plain water. It adds a great kick and makes you feel all warm inside.