images of today

my hands' unwillingness

Lately I have not been able to draw.
It's a terrible feeling like a loneliness, not being able to draw.
It started three weeks ago but I think, I hope, this is about to pass.
I'm getting a flood of images in my head and they are welling up with no outlet.
Inshallah, soon, my hands will cooperate.

sadberk hanim müzesi

There's a lovely little museum right between the towns of Büyükdere and Sarıyer called the Sadberk Hanım Müzesi. Unlike Istanbul's larger museums, the Sadberk is a private museum that feels more like a home— it's housed in two 19th century wooden villas right on the Bosphorus. Unfortunately I practically ran through it the other day, as I got there right before closing time. There was an exhibit of Iznik ceramics that I've been dying to see for about a month, and I was worried that I'd miss it. I had planned on taking pictures and doing a little writeup of the pieces, explaining what Iznik is, but right after I snapped the photo below, I was told to put the camera away.

I plan on going back soon to draw the motifs— I am a huge fan of Iznik design. Named after a town in Anatolia where the ceramics were produced, Iznik is an incredibly beautiful, ornate style that was originally influenced by Chinese porcelain. Tulips and carnations were popular motifs, as well as vegetal and geometric patterns. Vibrant turquoise, cobalt, red and green were the main colours that were used— I am particularly fond of the pieces that are heavy on the blues. There's a lot of symbolism involved in these gorgeous designs, which I hope to delve into when I can share some more images.


I also have to add that the Sadberk has one of the most wonderful collections of Ottoman women's clothing, accessories and needlework that I have seen so far in Istanbul. It feels quite personal, looking at the dainty combs and stitched purses once worn and loved. I was fascinated by a couple of dresses that were completely Victorian in style, except for the massive ornate silver belt and embroidery that was clearly Ottoman. They seemed to exemplify the blending of East and West that is truly Turkish.

When visiting Istanbul, I do suggest taking the ferry out to Sarıyer to this unique little museum, it's worth every lira— and it's open every day of the week except Wednesday.

random

Those white flecks above the bridge are birds.

lucky lucky

I had my first Turkish lesson yesterday at Tömer, which is right off Istiklâl in a lovely old building with great architectural details. So far, I really enjoy the teaching method— lots of speaking and absolutely no other language is allowed in the classroom. I learn best through conversation and immersion, so this should be just what I need.

If you're going to live in a country that is not your own, I strongly believe that you should learn its language. While you can coast by with English most of the time, the world just opens up to you once you learn its languages. The classes are four hours long and five days a week for a month, which should make a major difference in my communication skills.



During one of the breaks, I bumped into this charming fellow who was selling some random things on a table outside the school. I immediately spotted a small old tin– I don't normally collect things, but I do have quite a number of vintage tins that I use for my art supplies. Upon opening the tin I discovered the most glorious treasure a girl like me could hope for:



And not just any pen nibs— vintage nibs in perfect condition! It was like winning the lottery. I guess being pooed on by that pigeon in Prague really was lucky. I can't wait to try them out. I also found this clunky old camera that looks like it might work... now if I can just score some film.

images of bodrum

Last weekend I ran off to Bodrum and had an even better time than the last visit. The weather was absolutely perfect and more restaurants were open, as the season is about to hit full swing. I went on a boat trip to the most glorious swimming spots in the clearest, most turquoise water I have ever seen.


As you can see, I thoroughly enjoyed my fish. Never be put off by a fish served whole— lots of people get squeamish when they see the head still on. Just cover it with your lettuce or something because there is nothing like Turkish grilled fish. The skin is the best part, crispy and bursting with flavour, while the meat is very subtle and practically melts in your mouth. Turkish fish dishes are all about experiencing the fish's natural flavour; you'll seldom see a fish served with sauce, which is probably why I could never get into tartar sauce.

Bodrum is known for its handmade sandals, and just about every other shop is a leather sandal shop. Naturally, I picked up a pair.

Click on the images to see them larger.

don kişot

I took a trip to Kadıköy last week for some art supplies and thought I'd mention the shop Don Kişot. I stumbled upon this teeny art supply store while looking for another one I was told about, and discovered that not only did Don Kişot have most of what I needed, the owner was so friendly and nice, and the prices were the best I have found so far. Finding an art store with decent large canvases has been such a challenge for me in Istanbul, that I'm happy to have found this hidden gem.

After loading up on paints and ink, I wandered around the back roads in search of lunch, which I found at a pide stand.

delicious

Presenting some delectable and typical Turkish treats.

Let's call this a "Part One," since I can't possibly fit everything into one post!

Dut, Mulberries: sweet and hm, indescribable really.
I remember going to my great-aunts' house somewhere in Istanbul
when I was a little girl, and there was a large suspended net
collecting dut as they fell from the tree.
She served me a pudding covered in ground pistachios.

Erik, Green Plum: super-sour and tart, they'll make you squint.
During a Fun Day at my primary school, we raced with eriks
balanced in spoons for coloured ribbons.

Kurabiye, Cookies: buttery and crumbly like shortbread,
often with an end dipped in chocolate and ground pistachios.
You can find these cookies in other countries
but they remind me of Turkey.

Pide: a thick baked bread with a variety of topping options.

I suppose it's pizza or calzone-like, usually formed into a boat shape.
This fine example is with kaşar cheese and a spicy sausage called sucuk.

Tulumba: sticky and sweeter than anything
with a little crunch and a soft, spongy middle.
Sadly, I can only have two before I get a sugar overload.

Baklava: buttery, nutty, syrupy and crispy.
I am sure most of you have tried a piece or two, but I have to say
The most delicious baklava is Turkish.

Çay, Tea: Strong, reddish and full of flavour.
Wash every heavenly bite down with a delicate tulip-shaped glass full of çay,
a black tea that can be sweetened to your liking with a sugarcube or two.
Or three. Or four.