hairy

Two ways to rid yourself of ink— I went through about five Micron Pigma pens on these ladies. Hopefully I can score some more soon, because I feel a series coming on.

Please click on the images to see them larger.

artist + jewellery designer + turkish coffee

Ms. Shamila Jiwa in front of Yeni Camii in Eminönü.
Shamila's new collection is coming out soon, and is simply stunning.

beyond the bazaar

Last week, my friend Shamila took me to a place few foreigners are lucky to set foot in— the workshops behind the Kapalı Çarşı, otherwise known as The Grand Bazaar. This is where some of the gorgeous handcrafted jewellery and metalwork found in the bazaar are made. The building is ancient; in some corridors, you feel like the modern world has completely disappeared.


Apparently this space can be rented for about 63 liras a month.
I could use a studio to paint in...

the blues

Yesterday I met up with jewellery designer extraordinaire Shamila Jiwa to wander around Eminönü and visit the humble yet stunning Rüstem Paşa Camii. Rüstem Paşa is a hidden gem; a little mosque just to the left of the Spice Bazaar, if you are facing the Golden Horn. Known for its exquisite examples of İznik tiles, this quiet oasis was built from 1561 to 1563. I am mad for all things İznik— decorative ceramics popular in the 16th century, that were originally inspired by Chinese porcelain, which was lusted after by Ottoman sultans. In the chaos of Eminönü, this beautiful mosque is a wonderful escape. Be sure to take off your shoes upon entering, and ladies, out of respect, please cover your head and any tiny clothing with a scarf. You can pick up a lovely multicoloured 5 lira one at the Spice Bazaar before visiting.

The floral and geometric designs are typical of Islamic art and architecture— unlike many forms of Christianity, it is forbidden to depict the image of Allah, The Prophet and people. Because of this, the art of calligraphy was perfected— and let me tell you, the geometric patterns will just blow you away. Rüstem Paşa is full of light, blues and serenity— truly a place worth visiting.

san francisco in sketches